Wave Shoaling is a fluid-dynamical transformation process of surface gravity waves in which propagation from deeper to shallower water, under approximately conserved energy flux, leads to a depth-induced reduction in group velocity that is compensated by an increase in wave energy density, manifested predominantly as increased wave height and steepness with a corresponding decrease in wavelength.
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University of Delaware
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44 publications
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Delft University of Technology
Delft, The Netherlands
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Dalian University of Technology
Dalian, China
16 h-index
51 publications
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Scripps Institution of Oceanography
La Jolla, United States
14 h-index
21 publications
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Technical University of Denmark
Kongens Lyngby, Denmark
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24 publications
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Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique
Paris, France
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Kyoto University
Kyoto, Japan
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University of Waterloo
Waterloo, Canada
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- Journal of Fluid Mechanics
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