The Internal Velocity Field In Breaking Waves

Wave Breakers on a Beach and Surges on a Dry Bed

John Freeman, Bernard LéMehauté · Journal of the Hydraulics Division · 1964 · 81 citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +16

Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 1. Uniform beach slope

D. V. Ho, R. E. Meyer · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1962 · 76 citations

Natural Sciences, Earth Sciences, Coastal Engineering +16

Wave-Induced Motion of Bottom Sediment Particles

Peter S. Eagleson, Robert G. Dean · Transactions of the American Society of Civil Engineers · 1961 · 45 citations

Natural Sciences, Marine Sciences, Oceanography +17

Wave-Induced Motion of Bottom Sediment Particles

Peter S. Eagleson, Robert G. Dean · Journal of the Hydraulics Division · 1959 · 14 citations

Natural Sciences, Marine Sciences, Oceanography +17