Wave Breakers on a Beach and Surges on a Dry Bed

John Freeman, Bernard LéMehauté

Journal of the Hydraulics Division · 1964 · 81 citations · 0 references

Concepts

Abstract

The problem of wave breaking and wave run-up is treated by the method of characteristics. The cases of a spilling (nonsaturated) breaker, fully developed bore traveling in shoaling water and reaching a zero depth, and surge over a dry bed are examined. Some considerations on the dam-break problem also are presented.