Coastal Engineering · 1995 · 134 citations · 27 references
Natural SciencesOceanographyPhysicsOcean WavesOrbital DynamicsWave BreakingWave InteractionWave ShoalingOrbital VelocityShoaling DynamicsWave Breaking AsymmetryWave Breaking LocationWave Orbital Motion
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An approach to the sediment transport problem from general physics
R. A. Bagnold · USGS professional paper · 1966 · 2.2K citations · Full text
On the theory of oscillatory waves
George Gabriel Stokes · Medical Entomology and Zoology · 1847 · 1.2K citations