The theory of wave propagation in water of gradually varying depth and the prediction of breaker type and height

Breaker type classification on three laboratory beaches

Cyril Galvin · Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 1968 · 423 citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +17

THE SOLITARY WAVE THEORY AND ITS APPLICATION TO SURF PROBLEMS

Walter Munk · Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences · 1949 · 332 citations

Natural Sciences, Mathematics, Physics +10

AIRY WAVE THEORY AND BREAKER HEIGHT PREDICTION

Paul D. Komar, Michael K. Gaughan · Coastal Engineering Proceedings · 1972 · 176 citations · Full text

Natural Sciences, Earth Sciences, Physics +14

Airy Wave Theory and Breaker Height Prediction

Paul D. Komar, Michael K. Gaughan · Coastal Engineering 1972 · 1972 · 133 citations

Natural Sciences, Earth Sciences, Physics +14

THE SHOALING AND BREAKING OF THE SOLITARY WAVE

Arthur T. Ippen, Gershon Kulin · Coastal Engineering Proceedings · 1954 · 70 citations · Full text

Engineering, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +15