Coastal Engineering in Japan · 1986 · 76 citations · 1 references
Natural SciencesOcean EngineeringOceanographyCoastal EngineeringCoastal OceanographyPhysical OceanographyBeach MorphodynamicsCoastal DynamicsCoastal HydrodynamicsCoastal MorphodynamicsNearshore HydrodynamicsNearshore ProcessesBeach EvolutionBeach Profile EvolutionBreakwater HydrodynamicsCurrentsNearshore CurrentsNearshore WavesThree-dimensional Deformation ModelingTransport Formulas
ABSTRACTABSTRACTA three-dimensional numerical model for predicting beach evolution has been developed by improving a wave calculation method and sediment transport formulas. The wave computation includes wave refraction, diffraction and breaking. The beach deformation model adopts newly proposed formulas for sediment transport rates due to waves and nearshore currents. The validity of the model has been confirmed by applying it to the calculation of deformation of bottom topography around a detached breakwater and comparing the results with experimental data.
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