Onshore/Offshore Sediment Transport and Morphological Modelling of Coastal Profiles

Abstract

This paper presents a deterministic model for the morphological evolution of a coastal profile for direct incoming waves. The model contains description of waves across the coastal zone, current profiles, sediment transport and the corresponding morphological evolution. A discussion is given of the sensitivity of the model to a number of parameters and phenomena: Wave transformation after breaking, currents driven by density differences on a sloping bed, onshore transport in the non-broken waves, irregularity of waves, tidal variation.