ON NON-SATURATED BREAKERS AND THE WAVE RUN-UP

TLDR

The study introduces saturated and non‑saturated breakers following the breaking index curve and proposes criteria for determining them and the associated wave run‑up. An analytical approach based on the method of characteristics, including path‑curvature effects, is employed to examine wave run‑up on a sloped plane. The analysis yields theoretical results on gravity waves, establishes criteria for various breaking types and successive breaking, and solves the problem of waves climbing on a dry bed.

Abstract

Some theoretical results pertaining to the physical behavior of gravity waves on a sloped plane are presented. The notion of "saturated" breakers and "non-saturated" breakers which follow the breaking index curve is introduced. Criteria for different kinds of breaking and successive breaking of waves are presented. Some considerations on the wave run-up are deduced.
 Then a critical analysis of the method of characteristics is presented, with some possible refinements. Path curvature effect is taken into account and the problem of waves climbing on a dry bed is solved. Criteria for determining saturated and non-saturated breakers and the wave run-up by the method of characteristics are proposed.