Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 1985 · 99 citations · 19 references
Natural SciencesOcean EngineeringOceanographyCoastal EngineeringCoastal OceanographyPhysical OceanographyBeach MorphodynamicsCoastal HydrodynamicsNearshore HydrodynamicsNearshore ProcessesWave EnergyWave MeasurementsDeep Water WavesNearshore Wave DynamicsSurf Zone DynamicsSurf Zone HydrodynamicsWave Energy PropagationWave Height MeasurementWave HeightsWave Steepness
Time series of flow were measured across the inner surf zone during a storm. These data were used to quantify the dependence of wave height (transformed from measured flow) and velocity on local slope and depth. Similar to previous studies, as incident waves broke and propagated into the surf zone, wave energy became saturated, and wave height was strongly dependent on depth. However, the ratio of rms wave height to local depth (γ rms ) was found not to be constant but to vary between 0.29 and 0.55; γ rms increased with local slope and was independent of deepwater wave steepness. Thus the surf zone similarity parameter (the ratio of slope to the square root of steepness) did not adequately parameterize γ rms .
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