Resistance of human hair cuticle after a shaking process in wet conditions: comparison between Chinese and Caucasian hair

Abstract

Hair cuticle is the first protection shield of hair against external aggressions such as daily combing or brushing that induce friction, mechanical stress leading to ageing process. The identification of alterations of the hair surface induced by shaking process of various hair fibres, such as virgin and chemically treated Chinese and Caucasian hair, sheds some light on some specific features, e.g. Chinese cuticle is torn out in smaller particles than Caucasian, which seems to be related to geometrical rather than ethnic reasons. The present work also shows that two geometrical parameters of human hair, the inter-scale distance and the scale angle are directly linked to fibre dimensions, regardless of ethnic origin. Representative of hair with an average larger cross-sectional area, Chinese hair shows a slightly smaller inter-scale distance as well as a higher scale angle. On the other hand, Chinese hair cuticle seems to be more sensitive to chemical treatment than Caucasian hair, at least for straightening treatment taken here as an example. Such an approach can be of interest in designing cosmetic products more suited to specific needs of human hair.