Proceedings of the Royal Society of London A Mathematical and Physical Sciences · 1951 · 31 citations · 1 references
Natural SciencesMathematicsPhysicsFluid DynamicsGravitationGravityGravity WavesSurface Gravity WavesSurface Wave DynamicsWave BreakingBoundary Condition FormulationsBreaking Wave DynamicsWave Breaking AsymmetryWave Breaking Criteria
Abstract The two-dimensional problem of symmetric finite amplitude gravity waves in an incompressible fluid of infinite depth is treated by a method which first involves satisfying a non-linear boundary condition exactly. The higher approximations are obtained by the method of small parameters. The breaking-wave conditions are discussed and expressions are given for the free-surface equation, the kinetic and the potential energies of the fluid.
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