Marine Geology · 2004 · 83 citations · 32 references
Mathematical ModelingForeshore EvolutionEngineeringGeomorphologySedimentationCivil EngineeringSediment ProcessCoastal HydrodynamicsSedimentologyEarth ScienceCoastal Sediment TransportSediment Transport
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Climb of a bore on a beach Part 3. Run-up
M. C. Shen, R. E. Meyer · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1963 · 247 citations