An experimental study of large waves in intermediate and shallow water depths. Part I: Wave height and crest height statistics

Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP)

Klaus Hasselmann, T. P. Barnett, E. Bouws et al. · MPG.PuRe (Max Planck Society) · 1973 · 3.6K citations · Full text

Natural Sciences, Earth Sciences, Oceanography +17

On the statistical distribution of the heights of sea waves

M. S. Longuet‐Higgins · Medical Entomology and Zoology · 1952 · 1K citations

Natural Sciences, Oceanography, Ocean Waves +7

Wave Crest Distributions: Observations and Second-Order Theory

George Z. Forristall · Journal of Physical Oceanography · 2000 · 433 citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +15

On the statistical distribution of wave heights in a storm

George Z. Forristall · Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 1978 · 328 citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +14

A laboratory study of nonlinear surface waves on water

Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A Mathematical Physical and Engineering Sciences · 1996 · 312 citations

Natural Sciences, Oceanography, Physics +14