Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 1970 · 60 citations · 10 references
Natural SciencesCivil EngineeringOceanographyCoastal EngineeringOcean WavesSlope StabilityMountain WavesNearshore HydrodynamicsNonlinear Wave DynamicsStrong Ground MotionSurface Wave DynamicsWave BreakingBreaking Wave DynamicsBreaking WavesSlopes
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Motion of a bore over a sloping beach
Herbert B. Keller, Debbie Levine, G. B. Whitham · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1960 · 109 citations
ON NON-SATURATED BREAKERS AND THE WAVE RUN-UP
Bernard Le Méhauté · Coastal Engineering Proceedings · 1962 · 100 citations · Full text