Bulletin of the American Mathematical Society · 1946 · 62 citations · 0 references
Natural SciencesOcean EngineeringOceanographyCoastal EngineeringOcean WavesPhysical OceanographyBeach MorphodynamicsCoastal DynamicsCoastal HydrodynamicsNearshore HydrodynamicsNearshore ProcessesSurface Wave DynamicsNearshore Wave PropagationWave Breaking On Sloping BeachesWave Hydrodynamics