Optimized Variational 1D Boussinesq modelling of coastal waves propagating over a slope

Stability of periodic waves of finite amplitude on the surface of a deep fluid

Journal of Applied Mechanics and Technical Physics · 1968 · 2.5K citations

Natural Sciences, Mathematics, Physics +14

A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. Part 1. Highly nonlinear unsteady waves

Ge Wei, James T. Kirby, Stéphan T. Grilli et al. · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1995 · 935 citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +17

A derivation of equations for wave propagation in water of variable depth

Anne Green, P. M. Naghdi · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1976 · 665 citations

Natural Sciences, Oceanography, Physics +14

Variational methods and applications to water waves

G. B. Whitham · Proceedings of the Royal Society of London A Mathematical and Physical Sciences · 1967 · 646 citations

Natural Sciences, Mathematics, Oceanography +17

A variational principle for a fluid with a free surface

Jon C. Luke · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1967 · 519 citations

Natural Sciences, Mathematics, Physics +17