Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1976 · 665 citations · 5 references
Natural SciencesOceanographyPhysicsFluid DynamicsFluid MechanicsOcean WavesHydrodynamic ResponseIncompressible FlowInviscid FlowMarine HydrodynamicsSurface Wave DynamicsRigid MotionsShallow-water HydrodynamicsVelocityWave KinematicsWave Propagation In FluidsWave Theory
Within the scope of the three-dimensional theory of homogeneous incompressible inviscid fluids, this paper contains a derivation of a system of equations for propagation of waves in water of variable depth. The derivation is effected by means of the incompressibility condition, the energy equation, the invariance requirements under superposed rigid-body motions, together with a single approximation for the (three-dimensional) velocity field.
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D. H. Peregrine · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1967 · 1.4K citations
The solitary wave in water of variable depth
Roger Grimshaw · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1970 · 213 citations