Wave height distribution in shallow water

On the statistical distribution of the heights of sea waves

M. S. Longuet‐Higgins · Medical Entomology and Zoology · 1952 · 1K citations

Natural Sciences, Oceanography, Ocean Waves +7

On the joint distribution of the periods and amplitudes of sea waves

M. S. Longuet‐Higgins · Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 1975 · 362 citations

Natural Sciences, Marine Sciences, Oceanography +10

Irregular Wave Deformation in the Surf Zone

Yoshimi Goda · Coastal Engineering in Japan · 1975 · 239 citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +15

ESTIMATION OF WAVE STATISTICS FROM SPECTRAL INFORMATION.

Yoshimi Goda · 1974 · 58 citations

Natural Sciences, Geophysics, Oceanography +10

The Energy Spectra of Surf Waves on a Coral Reef

Theodore T. Lee, Kerry Black · Coastal Engineering 1978 · 1978 · 53 citations

Natural Sciences, Marine Sciences, Oceanography +15