Journal of Oleo Science · 2013 · 21 citations · 26 references
Natural SciencesChemistryMaterials ScienceElectrochemistryPharmaceutical FormulationSurface ScienceElectrolyte SolutionsEmulsion FormationEmulsion FormulationGelsSurfactantsAnionic SurfactantsCationic SurfactantsEmulsion StabilityIonic SurfactantsSalt ToleranceSurfactant SystemsViscosityViscosity Stability
Although many active ingredients are used in cosmetic products for moisturizing and whitening the skin, they are often electrolytes, and the stabilities of oil in water (O/W) type emulsion formulae containing electrolytes are generally difficult to control. To solve this problem, formulae containing an α-crystalline phase (α-gel) consisting of water, higher alcohols, and anionic surfactants such as sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyl-taurate (SMT) have been developed. However, in spite of their excellent salt tolerance, these formulae have poor viscosity stability under non-electrolyte conditions, and the viscosity decreases over time. To obtain adequate viscosity stability, the required electrolyte concentration is approximately 1wt%, which is somewhat high for cosmetic applications. To replace the salts, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DSAC), a cationic surfactant, with an opposite electric charge to SMT, was used in O/W emulsion formulae, resulting in improved viscosity stability at a lower concentration than that of salts. The stabilization mechanism with DSAC was found to be different from that of salts.
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Jörgen Jansson, Karin Schillén, Gerd Olofsson et al. · The Journal of Physical Chemistry B · 2003 · 232 citations
Koji Kano, Alejandro Romero, Belkacem Djermouni et al. · Journal of the American Chemical Society · 1979 · 86 citations