Direct measurements of the bottom friction factor beneath surface gravity waves

Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP)

Klaus Hasselmann, T. P. Barnett, E. Bouws et al. · MPG.PuRe (Max Planck Society) · 1973 · 3.6K citations · Full text

Natural Sciences, Earth Sciences, Oceanography +17

Combined wave and current interaction with a rough bottom

William D. Grant, Ole Secher Madsen · Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 1979 · 1.5K citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +17

Turbulent oscillatory boundary layers at high Reynolds numbers

Bjarne Jensen, B. Mutlu Sumer, Jørgen Fredsøe · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1989 · 570 citations

Natural Sciences, Physics, Aerodynamics +16

Motion of waves in shallow water. Interaction between waves and sand bottoms

R. A. Bagnold · Proceedings of the Royal Society of London A Mathematical and Physical Sciences · 1946 · 545 citations

Engineering, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +16

Movable bed roughness in unsteady oscillatory flow

William D. Grant, Ole Secher Madsen · Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 1982 · 531 citations

Natural Sciences, Civil Engineering, Fluid Dynamics +16