Near bed cross-shore velocity profiles, bed shear stress and friction on the foreshore of a microtidal beach

An approach to the sediment transport problem from general physics

R. A. Bagnold · USGS professional paper · 1966 · 2.2K citations · Full text

Engineering, Sediment Quality, Fluid Mechanics +8

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Coastal Management, Coastal Engineering, Engineering +8

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Wave Boundary Layer, Ocean Dynamics, Engineering +22

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Peter S. Jackson · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1981 · 571 citations

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Bjarne Jensen, B. Mutlu Sumer, Jørgen Fredsøe · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1989 · 563 citations

Engineering, Equivalent Sand Roughness, Fluid Mechanics +8