Objective Evaluation of Fabric Handle by Simple Measurement Methods

Abstract

In this study, objective and subjective evaluations of fabrics were made to predict fabric handle in a simple way. The aim of this research was to select a suitable form of regression model and predict total handle value with a minimum number of parameters to make a practical approach by using simple laboratory measurements. For this purpose, a wide database of 71 worsted men's suitings was prepared by making subjective and objective evaluations. Subjective tests of primary handle attributes (softness-stiffness, thickness-thinness, and roughness-smoothness) and total handle were evaluated by an expert jury consisting of 18 members, and a subjective total handle value was also calculated using these data. Objective measurements consisted of fabric tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface properties, and pulling through a nozzle tests. A new surface roughness tester was used for measuring surface properties, and it was found that these roughness results might be useful for fabric handle prediction. Linear and log linear regression equations were tested by using 43 parameters. Consequently, some simple regression equations that were practical solutions were obtained to predict fabric handle. A very good result was obtained with a value of the adjusted R 2 = 0.88 with eight parameters (LOGP1, LOGB, T42, RΔq1, Rp2, Rq1, Rp mean , P1) from four different property blocks (pulling through a nozzle, bending, tensile, and surface), and in particular, the regression equations reaching an adjusted R 2 value over 0.80 are recommended.