Nature · 1982 · 166 citations · 0 references
Natural SciencesOcean EngineeringOceanographyCoastal EngineeringOcean WavesPhysical OceanographyBeach MorphodynamicsNearshore HydrodynamicsNearshore ProcessesSurface Wave DynamicsWave LoadingWave RefractionNearshore Wave DynamicsNearshore WavesSeabed RoughnessSurface Wave ResonanceWave Breaking Over Sand Bars