TWO-DIMENSIONAL BEACH TRANSFORMATION DUE TO WAVES

Abstract

Important physical parameters controlling sandy beach transformation were clarified on the basis of the result obtained by a laboratory test. They were not only wave steepness but also beach gradient and a ratio of sand size to wave length. These parameters enabled the previously obtained laboratory beach profiles to be classified into newly proposed three beach types. These parameters were also found to be effective in grouping the data of shoreline changes both in laboratories and in fields.