DEVELOPMENT OF A MULTIFUNCTIONAL LIPSTICK WITH SOPHOROLIPIDS PRODUCED BY STARMERELLA BOMBICOLA

Abstract

The demand for sustainable formulations with natural bioactive ingredients has been intense, in order to meet the current market demands, which reveal that this sector is on the rise. Among the most used makeup products is lipstick, which for greater acceptance by consumers requires a formulation with multifunctional properties. Sophorolipids are microbial biosurfactants that exhibit biological properties such as moisturizing effect, antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, which are desirable characteristics for application in cosmetic formulations. Essential oils are also widely used in cosmetic formulations due to their antimicrobial and antioxidant activities. Thus, this study aimed to produce and characterize a lipstick with the addition of sophorolipids produced by Starmerella bombicola in association with palmarosa essential oil. The lipsticks were developed using 1g of sophorolipids and 0.2g of palmarosa essential oil. Sophorolipids showed an antioxidant activity of 59.40%. The lipstick formulation containing sophorolipids and palmarosa oil showed normal organoleptic parameters (appearance, color and odor), melting point (63 oC), breaking point (89 g), maximum occlusiveness (85.60), spreadability (201.5 mm2) and moisture retention greater than 90%. The use of sophorolipids combined with essential oils for the development of lipstick formulations resulted in a product with multifunctional properties that are very attractive for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.