Coastal Engineering in Japan · 1966 · 20 citations · 0 references
Natural SciencesOcean EngineeringOceanographyOcean WavesPhysical OceanographyPressure MeasurementSurface Wave DynamicsWave Measurement InstrumentsWave MeasurementsCorrection Factor DerivationProgressive WavesUnderwater Error CorrectionWater Surface Elevation EstimationWave GaugesWave Pressure Distribution
ABSTRACTABSTRACTThe paper concerns the characteristics of the correction factor which is introduced into the relationship between the water surface elevation of progressive waves and its corresponding fluctuation of underwater wave pressure.As a result of extensive investigations conducted both in laboratory and field, it is verified that the correction factor is well expressed by a certain function of relative water depth. By using an empirical formula proposed in this paper the power spectrum of surface elevation and its significant wave height off the Ohita Coast are estimated from the record of underwater pressure fluctuation. The estimated values, generally speaking, have a satisfactory agreement with the actual ones determined from the records of surface water elevation.