Coastal Engineering 1972 · 1972 · 10 citations · 0 references
Natural SciencesOcean EngineeringOceanographyCoastal EngineeringCoastal OceanographyOcean WavesBeach MorphodynamicsCoastal ChangeCoastal DynamicsCoastal HazardsCoastal MorphodynamicsCoastal ProcessesBeach Profile ChangeCoastal Erosion Rate EstimationCoastal ForecastingCoastal Process ModelingShapeShoreline Change AssessmentWave Climate Analysis
A mathematical model is described that is capable of predicting changes in the plan shape of a beach following the construction of sea defences or an alteration in the wave climate. The rate of change is calculated. The technique is illustrated by comparing model predictions with results from experiments carried out in a wave basin. The importance of the method in estimating coastal changes due to offshore dredging is mentioned, and the future development of the mathematical approach is outlined.