Geophysical Research Letters · 2022 · 16 citations · 46 references
Natural SciencesMarine SciencesOceanographyMarine EcologyOcean WavesPhysical OceanographyBarrier IslandsBathymetryMarine HydrodynamicsNearshore HydrodynamicsShallow Water EffectsDrag CoefficientDrag Coefficient EstimationMomentum BalanceShallow-water BathymetryShallow-water HydrodynamicsWave Exposure EffectsWave Exposure GradientsWave Exposure Impacts
Abstract The present paper reports of a field experiment over a shallow, roughness‐varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. The depth‐averaged momentum balance is used to estimate the bottom drag coefficient C d , which varies from 0.01 to 0.3, with dependence on both depth and reef structure. The depth effect on C d is well predicted by a log dependency, as used in previous laboratory and fields observations. The present results extend the approach to a system with more wave exposure and higher roughness‐to‐depth ratio. Additionally, the statistical relationship between high‐resolution reef topography and hydrodynamical parameters is discussed.
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The law of the wake in the turbulent boundary layer
Donald Coles · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1956 · 1.7K citations
<i>Fractals and Chaos in Geology and Geophysics</i>
Donald L. Turcotte, Stephen R. Brown · Physics Today · 1993 · 611 citations