PHYSICAL PROCESSES IN A FRINGING REEF SYSTEM.

Abstract

Field studies primarily on Grand Cayman Island and supporting investigations on Barbados furnished data concerning the magnitudes and spatial gradients of physical processes which interact with typical Caribbean reef systems and their unusual sea floor configurations. In situ measurements from the fore-reef shelf indicate that currents and deepwater waves are significantly modified by reef morphology. Wave heights are reduced 20% over a distance of approximately 0. 4 km, whereas a 75% reduction results from breaking processes as waves cross the reef crest and enter the back-reef lagoon. These highly modified waves induced a lagoonal circulation pattern which is reflected in the sediment distribution. 43 refs.