Journal of Geophysical Research Oceans · 2018 · 67 citations · 24 references
Natural SciencesEarth SciencesOceanographyAir-sea InteractionOcean WavesPhysical OceanographySurface Wave DynamicsWind StressDirectional Wave SpreadingOceanic Ekman LayerStokes DriftSurface Wind StressWave-wind InteractionWindWind Wave SpectraWind-wave Coupling
Abstract Many years of simultaneous hourly buoy wind and directional wave spectra data in the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific were used to estimate Stokes drift and u * e w where u * = (magnitude of the local windstress/water density) 1/2 and e w is a unit vector in the direction of the local wind. Stokes drift and u * e w were strongly vectorally correlated, the two vectors on average being within a few degrees of one another. This result remained valid even when there was evidence of remotely forced swell. Extension of the observed wave spectra above 0.35 Hz to the u * ‐dependent wave breaking frequency shows that typically the e ‐folding scale of the Stokes drift with depth is less than 1.8 m, much smaller than the Ekman layer e ‐folding scale. Therefore, there is negligible induced Eulerian cancellation of the Stokes drift, and the surface particle movement is governed by the Eulerian velocity + | u Stokes | e w . Taking into account wave spreading, | u Stokes | typically ranges from about 3 to 13 cm/s. Thus, the Stokes drift, which can be estimated directly from the wind stress, is an order one contributor to the surface transport of particles.
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On the theory of oscillatory waves
George Gabriel Stokes · Medical Entomology and Zoology · 1847 · 1.2K citations