Modeling of Wave Shoaling In a 2D-NWT Using a Spilling Breaker Model

Abstract

A 2D fully nonlinear NWT modeling wave propagation over arbitrary bottom topography is extended by the addition of a spilling breaker model, in which an absorbing surface pressure is specified over breaking wave crest areas. The instantaneous power dissipated for each breaking waveby the absorbing pressure is specified proportional to the dissipation in an inverted hydraulic jump of identical characteristics. These are obtained by applying a wavetracking algorithm to each calculated free surface. A maximum surface slope breaking criteria is used to identify breaking waves within the incidentwave train. Computations for a periodic wave shoaling and breaking over a plane slope are compared to laboratory experiments. The agreementisquitegood,although more work remains to be done in refining the breaker model parameter. Keywords : Nonlinear nearshore wave transformations, wave shoaling and breaking, numerical wave tank, breaker model, boundary element method.