Indigenous knowledge of Bhotiya tribal community on wool dyeing and its present status in the Garhwal Himalaya, India

Abstract

I have studied the indigenous knowledge of making natural dye from native plant species, by the Bhotiya tribal community of high -altitude Garhwal Himalaya, Uttaranchal, India. A questionnaire survey was conducted in the Bhotiya-dominated villages for identification and exploration of indigenous methods of wool dyeing using natural plant biomass. Information was also g athered through participatory field research methods. A total of eight plant species which are used as raw material in preparing various natural dyes were documented during the su rvey. Among them, two are vulnerable and one is endangered according to the ncriteria. The indigenous practice has declined manifold due to invasion of market forces and use of synthetic dyes. The present article deals with documenting the plant species and a method of natural dye preparation developed by the Bhotiya tribal community. It also highlights the economic factors involved in the marginalization of this indigenous practice. IN India, natural dyes provided by plants and animals have been in use for imparting different shades, generally to wool and cotton, from time immemorial. The various ethnic communities, including Bhotiyas of Chamoli District residing in the border regions of Garhwal Him alaya, are well known for their traditional expertise in making a range of woollen garments and materials, besides processing and colouring of wool 1 . Before 1962, there was trans-border trade between India and former Tibet, and the import of wool was the major source of income for the Bhotiya’s woollens-based, indigenous cottage industry 2–4 . But after 1962, trade was stoppe d due to conflicts between China and India 5,6 . However, due to the visit of a sizeable number of pilgrims and tourists to the Badrinath and Kedarnath shrines in Garhwal region, the Bhotiya community still has a market to sell the woollen products, so that this age-old tradition of pre paring woollen products and processes to make them colourful through indigenous methods are alive in the remote areas of Garhwal. The present study explores the indigenous methods of dyeing the woollen products in the higher Himalayan region of Garhwal, and also analyses the ongoing trends. Methods Extensive survey was carried out in three villages, Mana, Chhinka and Saldhar of Chamoli District, Uttaranchal, mainly dominated by Bhotiya tribal community. Mana was not included in the analysis due to inadequate info rmation, as it is a migratory village and thus holds most of the activities related to wool dyeing at the winter village. Chhinka and Saldhar are the permanent settlements of the Bhotiya tribe. Yet a few families use t hese villages during winter, as they migrate to high -altitude villages during the summer and rainy seasons. A questionnaire survey was conducted in each village for identification and exploration of the indigenous methods of wool dyeing and colouring. Information was collected through participatory field research methods such as semi structured interviews, field inspections, field observ ations and participation in their social life and events. Apart from this, the local and regional markets were su rveyed for use and quantity of sale in synthetic dyes. The qua ntity of woollen items weaved at home and the i ncome generated through the sale of these items were also mon itored. The use and change in pattern of preparing natural dyes at present along with the us e of synthetic dyes, were also studied through questionnaire surveys and group discussions.