Chinese Fashion Designers: Questions of Ethnicity and Place in the Twenty-First Century

Hazel Clark

Fashion Practice · 2012 · 14 citations · 8 references

Concepts

TL;DR

Asian‑American fashion designers have gained increasing global visibility, prompting media coverage of their collective achievements. The article examines how the ethnic recognition of second‑ and third‑generation Asian‑American designers influences their entry into the global fashion world and affects the visibility of other Asian designers, especially those from mainland China. Using Bourdieu’s concept of habitus, the study analyzes the roles of geographic place and ethnic discourse, illustrating the argument with examples of Asian‑American and mainland Chinese designers whose work has risen to prominence. The authors conclude that Chinese fashion designers are currently at a transition point in terms of broader awareness and reception.

Abstract

As Asian-American fashion designers have become better known in the USA and globally the media has highlighted their achievements collectively. What, this article asks, are the implications of second- and third-generation Asian-Americans having attracted such attention? If new, young fashion designers are being identified on the basis of their ethnicity how might they enter into or negotiate a position within a larger global fashion world, and what impact might this have on the identification of other Asian designers, not least those from mainland China, whose work is little known in the West? The argument is framed by the concept of habitus, seen from two perspectives, one the significance of place in the global fashion industry, and the other related to the discourse of “ethnicity” that surrounds the designers. Examples are discussed of Asian-American and mainland Chinese fashion designers whose work has become known more widely through the press, exhibitions, and commercial activity. We are, it is suggested, at a point of transition regarding the wider knowledge and reception of Chinese fashion designers.

References

8