Recovery of rock climbing performance after surgical reconstruction of finger pulleys

Abstract

UNLABELLED: This study evaluated recovery of sport performance and correction of bowstringing after surgical reconstruction of closed finger pulley rupture in high-level rock climbers. A total of 38 patients treated with an extensor retinaculum graft were assessed. The mean follow-up time was 85 months, and 30 patients returned to their previous climbing level. The mean total active motion score was 96% of the opposite side. All patients had an excellent Buck-Gramcko score. There was no significant difference in grip strength and tip pinch strength in the crimp position between the injured side and the opposite side. A total of 31 patients were examined with ultrasonography. In 18, flexor bowstringing effects had returned to near-normal values. There was an association between rock climbing level recovery and the flexor bowstringing correction (odds ratio, 6.9; 95% confidence interval, 1.1-42.8). If flexor bowstringing was corrected, patients were more likely to regain their preinjury sport performance. The ultrasonography measurement was a useful tool for predicting functional recovery. LEVEL OF EVIDENCE: 4.