A new statistical model of wave heights based on the concept of wave breaking critical zone

Boussinesq Modeling of Wave Transformation, Breaking, and Runup. I: 1D

Andrew B. Kennedy, Qin Chen, James T. Kirby et al. · Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering · 2000 · 705 citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +17

A high-order adaptive time-stepping TVD solver for Boussinesq modeling of breaking waves and coastal inundation

Fengyan Shi, James T. Kirby, Jeffrey C. Harris et al. · Ocean Modelling · 2011 · 641 citations · Full text

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +16

Numerical resolution of well-balanced shallow water equations with complex source terms

Qiuhua Liang, Fabien Marche · Advances in Water Resources · 2009 · 505 citations

Natural Sciences, Earth Sciences, Mathematics +14

Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile

William R. Dally, Robert G. Dean, Robert A. Dalrymple · Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 1985 · 352 citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +17

Irregular Wave Deformation in the Surf Zone

Yoshimi Goda · Coastal Engineering in Japan · 1975 · 239 citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +15