The transformation of a solitary wave over an uneven bottom

Abstract

Based on a set of approximate equations for long waves over an uneven bottom, numerical results show that as a solitary wave climbs a slope the rate of amplitude increase depends on the initial amplitude as well as on the slope. Results are also obtained for a solitary wave progressing over a slope onto a shelf. On the shelf a disintegration of the initial wave into a train of solitary waves of decreasing amplitude is found. Experimental evidence is also presented.