Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering · 1996 · 156 citations · 12 references
Natural SciencesEarth SciencesOceanographyCoastal EngineeringCoastal OceanographyOcean WavesCoastal DynamicsCoastal HydrodynamicsHydrodynamic ResponseNearshore HydrodynamicsTurbulenceTurbulent FlowBore DynamicsLaser-induced FluorescenceMotions In Long WavesRunup DynamicsSolitary WavesWave Celerity EstimationWave HydrodynamicsWave Reflection From Vertical Walls
The study measured incident wave celerity, profile, runup, force, overturning moment, and pressures, with wave profiles and runup histories captured by a laser‑induced fluorescence system. Experimentally, turbulent bores produce larger wave slopes, runup, forces, and moments than undular bores, yet the maximum force and moment are always below hydrostatic predictions, and when normalized, runup and force agree for bores on mildly sloping beaches and horizontal beds, enabling force estimates for turbulent bores on slopes up to 1/50.
The forces and overturning moments on a vertical wall due to the reflection of solitary waves, undular bores, turbulent bores, and surges on a dry bed were determined experimentally. The incident wave celerity, wave profile, runup, force, overturning moment, and pressures were measured. The wave profiles and runup time histories were obtained with a laser-induced fluorescence system. The transition from undular to turbulent bores exhibits a large increase in the maximum measured wave slope, runup, force, and moment. For all cases, the maximum measured force and overturning moment were always less than that computed from the maximum measured runup using hydrostatic considerations. When properly normalized, the runup and force on a vertical wall due to the impingement of bores on a mildly sloping beach and a horizontal bed are shown to agree quite well. The results of this study may be used to estimate the forces on a vertical wall due to turbulent bores traveling on beaches with slopes no steeper than 1/50.
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The stability of solitary waves
Mitsuhiro Tanaka · The Physics of Fluids · 1986 · 215 citations · Full text
Ralph H. Cross · Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division · 1967 · 168 citations