A theoretical study of waves breaking at an angle with a shore line

Abstract

By hydrodynamic theory, the height and ‘wavelength’ of a breaking wave, the depth of breaking, and the angle of the breaking crest with a straight shore line on a gently sloping beach are calculated from the height, length, and angle of the wave in water of infinite depth. These calculations, which are based on a first-order approximate theory, are presented on a chart. The process of calculation for a higher order is also indicated.