Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1979 · 114 citations · 7 references
Natural SciencesEarth SciencesOceanographyCoastal EngineeringFluid DynamicsSedimentologyCoastal HydrodynamicsHydrodynamic ResponseNearshore HydrodynamicsSurface Wave DynamicsWave ReflectionMotions In Short WavesProgressive WavesStokes EquationsStokes WavesWave HydrodynamicsWave KinematicsWave Reflection From Vertical WallsWave Theory
Short-crested wave systems, as produced by two progressive waves propagating at an oblique angle to each other, have an extremely important effect on a sedimentary bed. The complex water-particle motions are conducive to lifting material into suspension and sustaining it in motion. In order to study this phenomenon rigorously, the variables of this wave system are derived to a third-order approximation by a perturbation method. The case of waves reflecting obliquely from a vertical wall is examined under the assumptions of full reflexion, uniform finite depth and an inviscid incompressible fluid. The new formulation reduces to standing or Stokes waves at the limiting angles of approach. Expressions for kinematic quantities are also presented.
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On the theory of oscillatory waves
George Gabriel Stokes · Medical Entomology and Zoology · 1847 · 1.2K citations
Standing surface waves of finite amplitude
Iradj G. Tadjbakhsh, Joseph B. Keller · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1960 · 234 citations
On the theory of short-crested oscillatory waves
Robert A. Fuchs · 1952 · 31 citations