Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1965 · 646 citations · 2 references
Natural SciencesMathematicsPhysicsComputational Fluid DynamicsDifferential EquationsOcean WavesLinear Wave TheoryNonlinear Wave DynamicsSurface Wave DynamicsWave EnergyWave InteractionWave PropagationDispersive Wave EquationsDispersive Wave PropagationNonlinear WavesWave EquationsWave Nonlinearity
The basic property of equations describing dispersive waves is the existence of solutions representing uniform wave trains. In this paper a general theory is given for non-uniform wave trains whose amplitude, wave-number, etc., vary slowly in space and time, the length and time scales of the variation in amplitude, wave-number, etc., being large compared to the wavelength and period. Dispersive equations may be derived from a variational principle with appropriate Lagrangian, and the whole theory is developed in terms of the Lagrangian. Boussinesq's equations for long water waves are used as a typical example in presenting the theory.
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