Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1956 · 161 citations · 1 references
Natural SciencesOcean EngineeringOceanographyCoastal EngineeringCoastal OceanographyOcean WavesCoastal HydrodynamicsSurface Wave DynamicsWave GenerationCoastal Wave DynamicsEdge-localized ModesExternal Pressure DistributionNearshore Wave DynamicsStorm PropagationWave Pressure DistributionWind Wave Generation
An analytical study is made of the resurgent wave motion induced by pressure distributions moving parallel to a straight coast line. The resurgence is shown to consist of an infinite number of edge wave modes; expressions for these modes are given and the wavelengths, frequencies and amplitudes are shown to be in agreement with experimental results. The effects of a Gaussian pressure distribution are analysed. For large-scale disturbances off the east coast of the United States only the fundamental mode is excited. Conditions, such as storm size, speed and distance from shore, for maximum induced wave amplitudes are derived.
1
Edge Waves on the Continental Shelf
Walter Munk, Frank E. Snodgrass, G. F. Carrier · Science · 1956 · 122 citations