Transformation of a nonlinear wave train passing over a submerged shelf without breaking

The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves

Applied Ocean Research · 1983 · 1.7K citations

Natural Sciences, Earth Sciences, Oceanography +14

Long waves on a beach

D. H. Peregrine · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1967 · 1.4K citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +17

Alternative Form of Boussinesq Equations for Nearshore Wave Propagation

Okey Nwogu · Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering · 1993 · 1.1K citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +17

The deformation of steep surface waves on water - I. A numerical method of computation

M. S. Longuet‐Higgins, Edward D. Cokelet · Proceedings of the Royal Society of London A Mathematical and Physical Sciences · 1976 · 1.1K citations

Natural Sciences, Oceanography, Physics +14

A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Part 2. A slowly-varying bathymetry

Per A. Madsen, Ole R. Sørensen · Coastal Engineering · 1992 · 813 citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +6