The structure of short gravity waves on the ocean surface

Abstract

A brief review is given of the salient properties of short gravity waves and the way in which their structure is modified by longer waves or swell, by variable currents, and by internal waves. It is noted that an underlying swell produces a mottled pattern in synthetic aperture radar (SAR) imagery, and an expression is derived giving the fractional modulation in backscattering cross section of the ocean surface in terms of the slope of an underlying swell, the wind direction, and the direction of swell propagation relative to the angle of observation. The expression provides the possibility in appropriate circumstances of estimating the swell slope by remote sensing, in addition to the wavelength and direction of propagation, which can be measured directly from the imagery. An account is also given of the refraction of waves in variable currents and internal waves.