Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1980 · 80 citations · 10 references
Natural SciencesEarth SciencesOceanographyOcean ModelingOcean WavesPhysical OceanographyNonlinear Wave DynamicsSurface Wave DynamicsWave Energy FluxWave InteractionWave SpectraCoupling CoefficientEnergy TransferEnergy Transfer In Nonlinear SystemsFinite Depth Wave SpectrumModel Transformation RulesNonlinear Transfer CharacteristicsNonlinear Wave CouplingWave Directional Distribution
The energy transfer in a finite-depth gravity-wave spectrum is investigated in the approximation of a narrow spectrum. It is shown that for ocean depths larger than approximately one tenth of the wavelength ( kh [ges ] 0·7) the finite-depth case can be reduced to Longuet-Higgins’ (1976) result for an infinitely deep ocean by a similarity transformation involving changes in scale of the angular spreading function and the transfer rate. For shallower water ( kh < 0·7) Longuet-Higgins’ expansion technique is no longer applicable without modification, as the nonlinear coupling coefficient develops a discontinuity at the origin of the expansion. In the range kh [ges ] 0·7 both the magnitude and the two-dimensional frequency-directional distribution of the energy transfer are found not to differ significantly (to within variations by a factor of 2) from the case of an infinitely deep ocean. The transformation rules relating the infinite-depth and finite-depth cases may provide a useful guide for constructing parametrizations of the nonlinear transfer for finite-depth wave prediction models.
10
A Parametric Wave Prediction Model
Klaus Hasselmann, W. Sell, D. B. Ross et al. · Journal of Physical Oceanography · 1976 · 452 citations · Full text