Observed and modeled resonantly interacting progressive water-waves

The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves

Applied Ocean Research · 1983 · 1.7K citations

Nonlinear Ocean Waves, Engineering, Wave Group +6

Long waves on a beach

D. H. Peregrine · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1967 · 1.3K citations

Geophysics, Long Waves, Coastal Engineering +12

The deformation of steep surface waves on water - I. A numerical method of computation

M. S. Longuet‐Higgins, Edward D. Cokelet · Proceedings of the Royal Society of London A Mathematical and Physical Sciences · 1976 · 1.1K citations

Calculations of the development of an undular bore

D. H. Peregrine · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1966 · 1.1K citations

Engineering, Measurement, Surface Wave +21

The long-wave paradox in the theory of gravity waves

F. Ursell · Mathematical Proceedings of the Cambridge Philosophical Society · 1953 · 393 citations

Engineering, Fluid Mechanics, Shallow Water Hydrodynamics +21