Shock-capturing Boussinesq model for irregular wave propagation

Long waves on a beach

D. H. Peregrine · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1967 · 1.4K citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +17

Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to ‘surf beats’

M. S. Longuet‐Higgins, R. W. Stewart · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1962 · 1.1K citations

Natural Sciences, Earth Sciences, Oceanography +12

Alternative Form of Boussinesq Equations for Nearshore Wave Propagation

Okey Nwogu · Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering · 1993 · 1.1K citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +17

Calculations of the development of an undular bore

D. H. Peregrine · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1966 · 1.1K citations

Natural Sciences, Oceanography, Differential Equations +12

A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone

Pengzhi Lin, Philip L.‐F. Liu · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1998 · 830 citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +17