Dispersive shallow water waves over a porous sea bed

The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves

Applied Ocean Research · 1983 · 1.7K citations

Natural Sciences, Earth Sciences, Oceanography +14

Long waves on a beach

D. H. Peregrine · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1967 · 1.4K citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +17

COMPUTATION OF COMBINED REFRACTION - DIFFRACTION

J.C.W. Berkhoff · Coastal Engineering Proceedings · 1972 · 717 citations · Full text

Natural Sciences, Mathematics, Differential Equations +15

Surface-wave propagation over sinusoidally varying topography

A.G. Davies, A.D. Heathershaw · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1984 · 382 citations

Natural Sciences, Ocean Engineering, Oceanography +14

Resonant reflection of surface water waves by periodic sandbars

Chiang C. Mei · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1985 · 360 citations

Natural Sciences, Oceanography, Coastal Oceanography +13