Geophysical Research Letters · 1992 · 41 citations · 3 references
Natural SciencesOceanographyOcean WavesPhysical OceanographyTime Series AnalysisSurface Wave DynamicsSurface Wave MethodsWave GroupingWave MeasurementsWave SpectraWave StatisticsFrequency ModulationPhase InformationProbability Density FunctionsSurface WavesWave Group DetectionWave Group FormationWave Group IdentificationWave Group Statistics
Traditionally, investigation of statistical properties of ocean waves has been limited largely to global quantities related to elevation and amplitude such as the power spectral and various probability density functions. Although these properties give valuable information about the wave field, the results cannot be related directly to any portion of the time data from which it was derived. We present a new approach using phase information to view and study the properties of frequency modulation, wave group structures, and wave breaking. We apply the method here to ocean wave time series data and identify a new type of wave group (containing the large “rogue” waves), but the method also has the capability of broad applications in the analysis of time series data in general.
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Egon Marx · American Journal of Physics · 1967 · 643 citations
W. Kendall Melville · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1983 · 168 citations