Fashion orientalism and the limits of counter culture

Chinoiserie is often assimilated to the generic category of "ethnic dressing". Thus, Vogue Modern Style begins with the announcement that "Ethnic dressing comes from the hot and sultry East whose gorgeous fabrics have been bartered and fought over for centuries by Western traders". Edward Said would have a field day with this image of the reified Orient implicitly characterized as a sexually ardent (hot) yet passive female, whose booty has been bought and fought over by active western males. The author exhibits no awareness that Asian fabrics are also used within Asia and traded by Asian merchants. Asian fashions are also created by Asian designers. All cultures tend to make representations of foreign cultures, the better to master or in some way control them. Yet not all cultures make representations of foreign cultures and in fact master or control them. This is the distinction, I believe, of modern Western cultures.