SHAPE OF THINGS: UNDERSTANDING A LOOM WEIGHT

If there is one thing to be learnt from watching people work in old traditional crafts it is this: The tools and the working procedures are never clumsy, never impractical ( Hoffmann 1988 ) Summary Loom weights are common finds in archaeological excavations in Europe and the Near East. They represent the only remains of warp‐weighted looms. The function of the warp‐weighted loom is well known from ethnographic studies. The function of loom weights, however, has not been investigated and cannot be deduced directly from ethnographical data, since loom weights in antiquity were very different from those used in the twentieth century AD. This paper reviews the functional elements of a loom weight. The weight and thickness of loom weights are established as the defining functional parameters for the operation of the warp‐weighted loom. A series of systematic tests demonstrated that the weight of a loom weight defines what yarn to use and the thread density. The thickness of a loom weight, and thus the width of the row of loom weights hanging closely together, defines the width of a fabric and – together with the weight of the loom weight – the thread count and density of the fabric. This new knowledge provides the methodological framework for archaeologists to calculate textile production possibilities from any given loom weight, as long as the weight and thickness are preserved. Furthermore, it allows scholars to assess textile production on sites where no textiles are preserved.